I can now answer the question I posed in my very first blog post. The answer is: you don’t. Just be genuinely kind and friendly… and make sure they find out that you’re blogging. It took me a while to cotton on, but I’m pretty sure that my extra-special treatment wasn’t just due to a smile. And when I look back, it does explain a few “lucky” things: the double-upgrade on my Ha Long Bay cruise, the cheap Sapa tour and the cut-price massage in Hoi An. As a thank you, I’ve left reviews on TripAdvisor. But they’re honest – you can buy my review, but you can’t buy my opinion 😉
I never once regretted my spontaneous decision to go travelling. I’ve been wanting to do it for ages: “if you can’t stop thinking about it, don’t stop working for it.” Or something like that. And I’ve learnt some really important things:
I learnt to trust my gut instinct. It never let me down. I’ve always trusted it in theory, but this trip proved I can rely on it.
I learnt that I’m luckier than I can comprehend. And, as a result, I’ve become calmer. Day-to-day first-world problems just don’t bother me anymore. Because I’ve seen what the world looks like without first-world problems. And I’ll take the first-world problems, thanks.
I’ve learnt that war devastates a country for decades after it’s ended. World peace is a phrase that’s become over-familiar, but it’s taken on a new meaning for me. I’ve never experienced war, but having visited countries still recovering from the horrors, it’s made it more real. And it’s something I never want to experience. Lives get put on hold, land gets devastated, and the economic, human and environmental effects live on long after the last bomb has been dropped.
I’ve also learnt to do things my way. I no longer worry about what everyone else is doing, but am happy to make my own path. Even if that is against the social norm. Which it usually is 😉
I did it. I had no idea what to expect before I got on that plane last September, but I pretended to be brave and I’ve been rewarded with memories that’ll last a lifetime. I hope you’ve enjoyed the ride 🙂
And now the planning for the next trip starts… Not sure exactly when or where, but I know it’ll involve surprises, paradigm shifts, new people, culture shocks… and my three pairs of pants.
My thumbs have mostly recovered. But I’ll likely have to be careful for a while to prevent any serious damage. Should’ve downloaded Swype ages ago…
Diva Cup
Success! Like most things, it’s easy once you know how. It pays for itself in less than a year, makes taking supplies everywhere a thing of the past and, best of all, it’s kind to the environment. Please do try one, or tell someone about it.
Travelling list
“Is your whole life in that bag?”
“Your bag is so small!”
“Is that all the stuff you’ve got?”
Travelling light is the way to go. It meant I never had to leave my pack unless I wanted to, gave me flexibility and made moving around infinitely more comfortable (and, therefore, enjoyable). Many commented, most said they’d wished they’d packed less and nobody said they hadn’t packed enough.
I cried and cried and cried. I cried so much that concerned, kind strangers stopped to ask if I was OK. I nodded as tears streamed down my face. I was clearly not OK. Of course I was looking forward to going home to see family and friends, but right now I was leaving. Leaving Asia, leaving my adventure, leaving the traveller’s life and, most significantly, leaving Rudy.
One team, two months, three time zones, four countries and thousands of laughs. We’d been together pretty much all day, every day and leaving him was a real wrench. I enjoyed travelling with him so much – much more than travelling by myself. He’s kind, generous, fun, reliable, interesting, observant, thoughtful. And happy. Watching him spread his happiness had been incredible to watch and I felt privileged to have travelled with him. But now it was time to say goodbye:
And so, after two smooth flights over some rather inhospitable-looking terrain:
…. I arrived home. I’m kinda numb to it all – it seems real to be home, but not real. I think it’ll take a while for my brain to process it. And then I’ll write again.
“May I talk to you?” asked the Japanese lady who approached our breakfast table.
Our minds went back to last night and the drunk Swede. Why are people drawn to us? My theory is that they’re not – they’re drawn to Rudy. I never had this when I was travelling by myself, but he’s a people magnet 🙂 Happily, she was great company – a retired lady who was travelling with her husband now that her three daughters were grown up.
Then a relaxed bus tour (the ticket was for 24 hours, so we definitely got our money’s worth), seeing the city’s buildings:
And transport:
And damp buildings (this is what those new buildings in Cambodia will look like in the not-too-distant future):
And Chinatown’s Petaling street from above:
Later in the trip, I got chance to practice my modelling skills – the girl in front was taking another “strategic” selfie. Rudy suddenly stopped talking when he realised I was looking ahead, smiling and bringing my V-sign close to my face. She looked mildly embarrassed, then pleased and took the photo. Our conversation resumed. I hope I made her happy 🙂
Then it was off to meet Cris and Annie. Walking to the market, we saw this massive hole in the road (which had got noticeably larger by the time we returned about an hour later):
Markets are always good – bustling, alive, colourful, interesting. And this one was no exception. We were just one metro stop outside the city, but it felt completely different – residential and local, despite the large percentage of ex-pats:
“Do you have any onion?” Annie asked the stallholder.
“No, only vegetables.” Ah, right. Yes.
Rudy’s attention was stolen by the dumpling stall:
Then back via the supermarket where, outside, there was a food bank for people to deposit and take whatever they needed. Great idea. Many times I’ve been faced with a BOGOF* offer and would have been happy to give away the free item:
Cris and Annie travel the world. They made their money by working hard, noticing a niche in the market for ethnic clothes and alternating between Thailand, where they designed and made the clothes, and European festivals, where they sold them. They now do whatever they please. And right now this involves a stay in KL in an apartment via AirBnB (must try this sometime). So I went for a lovely swim in the block’s pool, did some yoga with Annie and then ate a delicious veggie curry. Anka and Marishu are their Romanian and Peruvian (respectively) flatmates. A great night with great company:
PS I should explain why we’ve all got our hands up: Marishu (front centre) cut her hand on a glass earlier that evening and needed to keep it raised, so we joined her in a show of solidarity 🙂
A free walking tour focusing on the heritage of the city started the day off very nicely indeed:
Kuala Lumpur (KL) means “muddy confluence*”
In the late 19th century, there was a Chinese “gold rush” (in inverted commas because it was actually tin ore) to Kuala Lumpur
When the Chinese arrived, they settled on the less-muddy south bank
Between 1913 and 1957 the city fell under British authority, and they built on the north bank
The British wanted the city to develop rapidly and therefore they soon constructed a good road-system, railroads and other infrastructure
Japanese took over in 1942 for three years, changing the currency, time and language, with people forced to learn Japanese
The British had surrendered easily, partly because they were expecting the Japanese to approach by sea, so were pointing their guns in the wrong direction when they came overland from the north (!), and partly because the Indian transition to independence a little earlier had been a difficult time and they were reluctant to repeat it
So it was that Malaysia didn’t fight for independence but negotiated it
In 1957, Malaysia became an independent country
KL has a population of 1.6 million (as of 2010) and has great plans for the future, including a high-speed rail link to reduce the journey time to Singapore from 7 to 2 hours and the building of 300 edifices over the next 5 years.
Most of the heritage walk focused on the north bank, where the British settled and many of the colonial buildings still remain around Independence Square:
As the main form of transport for the British, there are many reminders of horse and carriage, such as this fountain which functioned as a drinking station:
And posts for tying up the horses:
One post outside the old British administration building was very low – over the years, the streets have been paved, layer over layer so the steps that raised the level of buildings as a flood defence have been gradually eaten away. But notice that the bottom step here is retained, even though it’s very low:
This, apparently, is because it’s auspicious (remember the Malaysians, like the Chinese, believe in this kind of thing) to step into a building with your right foot. As most people are right-handed, they will usually take the first step with their right, also. Retaining five steps means it’s more likely they’ll enter with their right foot. Neat, eh? Same with the hands – always give and receive with the right hand.
The Sultan Abdul Samad building (used by the British as an administration building) was, like many of the buildings here, designed by Arthur Charles Alfred Norman (who, along with AB Hubback, were responsible for most of the buildings in the area) and displays a mixture of architectural styles, predominantly Moorish:
At St Mary’s church, there was a wedding reaching its key point – we arrived just as they were pronounced husband and wife:
And then to the Royal Club where no women are allowed in the Long Bar. What rubbish. I went in anyway:
Not exactly a happening place. As an aside, St Andrews Golf Club started admitting women in Feb 2015.
Some nice exhibits in the music museum, including a set of gamelan:
And the drum used in the Commonwealth Games ceremony when KL hosted it in 1998:
Then through Chinatown:
… and on to catch the bus tour. The National Palace was bustling with tourists, but no admittance meant that, when you watched closer, people were taking a few photos and moving on. Which is what I did:
Then to the National Mosque. A relatively new building, the tower uses 13-sided and 5-sided shapes to represent the 13 states of Malaysia and 5 pillars of Islam:
I had to wear a hijab because I have breasts:
I may have missed the point and am, as ever, happy to be corrected (MR?) but it would seem that the female Muslim dress code to cover up seems to be because they don’t want to seduce men. Isn’t this rather sexist? I find it insulting to suggest that men don’t have any self-control in the presence of women. Not insulting to me, obviously, but insulting to men. Or perhaps it’s almost an excuse for them to misbehave. Don’t know. Either way, it was bl**dy hot under there, so it came off in places – I don’t want to offend (when in Rome…), but it’s not exactly practical attire for 30 degree heat. And I do, of course, respect each individual’s right to choose. As long as they have a choice and are not forced into it. Mind you, I have to admit that I kinda liked the feel of the hijab – it made me feel rather elegant. And that’s quite difficult 😉
The main mosque area looked impressive, but was “Muslims only”:
Interesting. As you may have noticed, I’ve visited a *lot* of temples over the past few months, and never have I been refused entry because I’m not Buddhist. Same with churches and cathedrals – they’re open to all. This does nothing for Islam’s PR. Please reconsider – I’m genuinely interested in, and respect, your faith even if I don’t share your views. But I did, of course, respect their request and didn’t enter. How is this different from the Long Bar? I don’t know. I make up the rules based on what feels right – to myself and others. And, later on, I discovered this is how hijabbed (is that a word?) women drink:
The family tree was interesting:
And the clock unusual:
And this made me smile – she looks so chilled under there:
Then a quick look at the impressive Old Railway Station:
Before going back through Chinatown, and it’s food:
… for a claypot dinner – scrummy:
… where we were accosted by a middle-aged Swede. Within 30 seconds, he’d told us that he’d been robbed. Short story: drinking on the plane continued when he arrived in KL. Woke up on the street and found that his watch, neck chain and wallet were gone and, upon calling his bank, that 10,000 euros had been taken out of his account. He was still drunk. Hadn’t yet told his wife (although later it emerged that maybe he had) who was due to arrive five days later. But he didn’t ask for money, which is what we were expecting (he could clearly afford beer so couldn’t have been that desperate). Can you take money out of a credit card account without the PIN? Anyway, I liked him…. because he’s the slowest gazelle: if his story is true, then it’s people like him that stop me getting robbed 🙂
Random stuff from today. This notice on taxis in KL was music to my ears:
A brilliantly-designed umbrella – notice the lip at the front to redirect the water:
A clear lack of regulations when it comes to selling cigarettes:
An easy day, starting with a closer view of the Petronas Towers:
… but didn’t go up – the queues are usually long and we’d had great views of the city last night (which included the towers themselves but, of course, when you’re in ’em, you can’t see ’em!).
Then a walk through the park with unusual trees – at first I thought it was a parasite plant, but I think it’s the tree itself:
And I really liked whale sculpture by the enormous paddling pool:
Crashed out:
… before dinner at a local Indian cafe which is always bursting with customers (thus following our “eat with the locals” approach to fine dining):
And sunset:
An easy day, leaving time to ponder KL. Now, I have to declare an interest at this point: one of my close friends is from there. But I will still give my honest observations, as ever 😉
As with many of the more developed places in Asia, its road systems use the U.S. blueprint, and there’s no hocking or spitting (hooray). And whilst its language is still foreign, using the Latin alphabet means a few words are recognisable and that’s often enough to get you through. But everyone speaks English anyway. And many buildings aren’t just blocks, but are aesthetically pleasing. Plus paved streets, concrete houses, fixed prices and modern transport systems.
But it’s also distinctly Asian: open shops, some unusual eats (to my eyes), no drinking water from taps, not brilliant signage (not that I need much help to get lost) and cheaper prices (but still more expensive than SE Asia).
In other respects it’s an odd mix: sometimes people queue (British) other times they get on the train before anyone’s had a chance to get off (Chinese); public toilets offer both squat and throne versions; sometimes toilet paper provided (western), other times not (eastern).
A travelling day on a first-class bus to Kuala Lumpur:
… where I was treated to dinner in the KL Tower – a revolving restaurant affording 360 degree views of the city:
… as the sun went down:
… and the thunderstorm arrived:
A new type of sink design – guess how you turn the tap on?:
Nope, nothing to give it away. This is what UX people call a “lack of affordances” – nothing to push, pull, turn or lift, so you’re at a complete loss as to how to use it. So a sticker is required (if something requires a sticker, it usually means it hasn’t been designed well):
The international buffet was amazing – spoilt for choice and way too much to exercise my usual “a little of everything” approach:
A special evening, with amazing views and wonderful company – another highlight:
… before we hit the streets of Singapore (although, for the avoidance of doubt, that’s not us in the photo):
Outside the Kwan Im Thong Cho Chinese temple were stalls selling feng shui constancy and fortune-telling, with this one using a bird to assist the process (and, I suspect, attract the punters who seem partial to a bit of avian involvement):
My Chinese New Year horoscope was overwhelmingly positive (about bl**dy time), and whilst I don’t believe in this kind of thing, I do believe in the power of positive thinking. So I’m going with it.
The Indian mosque next door reminded me a little of Trigger’s broom* as it was built in 1884, and then rebuilt in 1895 and, most recently, 1982. The two characters either side of the entrance are the Monkey God (extra points if you can remember his name – I can’t) and a rather different (and scary) looking Garuda:
Here are the hotels with the ship on top. Very clever. Didn’t go up:
I also liked the surface of some parts of the hotel: from a distance they moved like corn in the wind. Upon closer inspection, it was made of individual moveable flaps:
Then a walk round the Gardens By The Bay where I re-encountered this tree – remember what’s special about it?
Yup, the Traveller’s Tree (which, I found out about half an hour later is, in fact a cycad or “false palm”) – it always grows north to south.
And this pretty bush (anyone know what it is?):
And an explanation of “aerial roots” which give a name to the unusual hanging roots on the banyan trees I’ve seen.
I could see her lining it up – a pretend selfie in the middle of a random corridor in the mall on the way back from the gardens. As I fitted into the gap she’d left for me on the screen, I gave her a wide-eyed, tongue-out picture. If I’d have been more confident, I’d have done what Rudy often does: walk up, stand close and make a nice photo (with a victory sign, if they’re lucky). I realised afterwards that I probably ruined her nicely set up picture and made a mental note to try to at least try to look normal.
Random stuff from today:
The fine for bringing durian fruit on board is clearly not quantifiable (it stinks and many places ban it):
And you can tell it’s a cosmopolitan city as notices on the metro are written in four languages.
Statues:
Pick-your-own crabs outside a seafood restaurant:
And here they’re even more polite than London – queuing to get on the metro. Impressive:
Then chilling with our friend the Merlion before dessert (oh, yes, and dinner, but mainly dessert):
Finally, a t-shirt slogan that makes sense. A lot of sense, in my world anyway:
A river cruise to start the day, showcasing some of the best sights in Singapore:
Ports were important in days gone by, when sea was the main method of transportation. So it’s not surprising that strategic ports prospered. Enter Singapore – a key stop between East and West, trading seafood and spices. And it’s not difficult to imagine its quay bustling with ships and traders. It’s south bank curves like a carp which is auspicious in eastern culture, so the first immigrants believed it was where prosperity and wealth could be found. Despite development the facades have been retained, the higgeldy-piggeldy rooftops are a reminder that house height used to indicate wealth. Perhaps it still does..? Nowadays it’s a trendy dining and drinking spot:
Fort Canning’s colourful exterior “reflects the city’s multicultural heritage”, although it acted as a torture chamber during WWII; at one time the police station and secure jail, it was once considered a skyscraper and was made a national monument in 1998:
The Merlion is a lion’s head on a fish’s body upon rolling waves and is the emblem of Singapore:
Nearby is the impressive financial centre:
And I rather like the helix bridge, symbolizing health, wealth and prosperity:
Does this look familiar?:
It’s the Singapore flyer, surely modeled on the very successful London Eye, although a little bigger at 165m..?
Back on dry land, I turned a corner and had a pleasant surprise, so a much-enjoyed lunch at an old favourite from my US, and then university, days:
Through Chinatown:
… before heading to Little India and this mosque:
After numerous failed attempts at entering a mosque (they usually have unusual opening hours due to prayer times), I finally made it in and met a lovely man who seemed more than happy to answer all my questions. How much do you know about Islam? Here’s an introduction:
“Islam” is Arabic for “submitting and surrendering one’s will to Almighty God” (Allah)
A prophet is someone to whom God revealed the “Ultimate Truth”
Muslims believe in Jesus, but as another prophet (like Noah, Abraham and Moses) rather than the “Son of God” (Christian belief)
Over 80% of the world’s Muslims are *not* Arabic
The five pillars of Islam:
to testify that none is worthy of worship except Allah and that Muhammad is the messenger of Allah
to pray five times a day
to pay zakaah (2.5% tax on income and property to help the poor)
to fast during the month of Ramadan
to perform Haji (pilgrimage) t0 the House of Allah, if you have the means
Prayer ritual:
Ablution involves cleaning the face, hands and feet before entering the mosque, as a sign of respect
Each prayer session lasts 10 to 15 minutes
Prayer sessions are at set times of the day, but it gradually rotates – the times were up on a board near the men’s ablution area
There’s no set process for praying – you freestyle
Religious text
As God’s messenger, Muhammad received revelations from God over a period of 23 years (from the age of 40 until his death)
These revelations are known as the Qur’an (equivalent to the Christian Bible)
Muslims believe the Qur’an is the very word of God (whereas, for example, the gospels of the Bible are accounts by others written some time later)
Back on the street and to a cafe to have a quick juice to refresh where this guy was eating a late lunch. With his hands:
I’ve never seen this way of eating. He’d pour some white liquid on his rice, then bring it together between his fingers and thumb, squish it a few times and raise the still slightly sloppy morsel to his mouth. I’d like to try sometime. I suspect I’ll make even more of a mess than usual >_<
In 1819, Sir Stamford Raffles (1781-1826) signed a treaty with Sultan Hussein and Temenggong Abdul Rahman allowing the British East India Company to establish a trading post in Singapore. In 1823, the sultan wanted a mosque near his residence in the area. It was constructed between 1824 and 1826 but by the early 1900s it had become inadequate for the Muslim population. In January 1924 the new building was commissioned, designed by Irish architect Denis Dantry, and built over a few years to phase funds:
But it was closed to non-Muslims 🙁
Then through the streets of Little India:
… back to the Merlion where we fortuitously caught another laser show. Hong Kong please take note – this is how you do it:
Then an evening just watching the world, and a significant number of runners, go by. You can tell it’s close to the business district – at home time, the promenade around the harbour becomes a running track for serious athletes and newcomers’ new year’s resolutions. Stick with it, guys – it’s worth it 🙂 And I so wish I could join you 🙁
Then back through the Singaporean streets (where the shops spill out on to the pavement) to our hotel:
Rudy is fluent in English. But he’s not a native speaker. What this means in reality is not that he doesn’t know the words, or indeed the phrases, but that sometimes the timing or context isn’t quite right. We’d finished our breakfast and, over a couple of cups of tea (me) and coffee (him) were trying to fight the lethargy to start the day. Rudy got up out of his chair, nodded his head towards the exit and said: “Come on, you miserable piece of sh*t”. It didn’t help – I couldn’t stand up for laughing.
Swype
Swype is an app that enables you to slide between letters on a soft keyboard rather than tapping each one. I wish I’d downloaded it earlier – maybe it would have saved my thumbs (and a lot of time). If I did this trip again, though, I’d bring a laptop.
RAOKs
Sorry chaps, there’s a definite gender split – whilst men and women are just as likely to scam you, RAOKs are much more likely to be committed by a female. So far the ratio is 6:1. Not statistically significant, I’ll grant you, but very noticeable at ground level.
Masks
Not only do Chinese often wear masks to protect against pollution, they are effective (apparently) at reducing dust inhalation when riding a scooter. People also wear them when they have a cold (or similar) to reduce transmission. What a good, and thoughtful, idea.
Portion size
In Asia, I’ll often be served a slightly smaller portion than the men I’m with. Not sure whether it’s deliberate or subconscious, but it’s quite noticeable, even though the difference is small. Sensible, but not exactly gender equal. Not a problem at the moment, but if I was doing all my usual exercise, it wouldn’t be welcome.
Diva cup
I really wanted to be able to report huge success. I really did. Because it could be an amazing solution. But I have to report mixed results. I can now tell when it’s in correctly, thus preventing messy situations, but I have yet to master the insertion technique. And my “no Caucasians, no fertility” theory remains unproven as I’ve been travelling with a Belgian man and normal service has a resumed. Verdict: inconclusive. Bins in toilets
They don’t flush tissue. Even in Hong Kong. Sensible – apparently it’s a real problem when treating waste water. And our society’s “thicker, softer, stronger” trajectory isn’t helping. Everywhere here has a bin. Might adopt this approach upon my return to reduce the risk of a blockage and do my bit to assist.
The bum gun
It’s gone! Argh! It took a little while to get comfortable with it, but now it’s not there, I miss it. And, whilst we’re on the toilet subject (again), I’d just like to point out that squat toilets facilitate the whole process. If you know what I mean. For those that are able to get up afterwards. And get down in the first place (which, of course, everyone would be able to do if they’d done it since childhood). It took ages to get used to it, but I can now understand those notices I photographed early in my trip instructing people not to climb onto throne toilets – if it’s what you’ve always been used to, it’s the only way to go. Pun intended.
