I cried and cried and cried. I cried so much that concerned, kind strangers stopped to ask if I was OK. I nodded as tears streamed down my face. I was clearly not OK. Of course I was looking forward to going home to see family and friends, but right now I was leaving. Leaving Asia, leaving my adventure, leaving the traveller’s life and, most significantly, leaving Rudy.
One team, two months, three time zones, four countries and thousands of laughs. We’d been together pretty much all day, every day and leaving him was a real wrench. I enjoyed travelling with him so much – much more than travelling by myself. He’s kind, generous, fun, reliable, interesting, observant, thoughtful. And happy. Watching him spread his happiness had been incredible to watch and I felt privileged to have travelled with him. But now it was time to say goodbye:
And so, after two smooth flights over some rather inhospitable-looking terrain:
…. I arrived home. I’m kinda numb to it all – it seems real to be home, but not real. I think it’ll take a while for my brain to process it. And then I’ll write again.
“May I talk to you?” asked the Japanese lady who approached our breakfast table.
Our minds went back to last night and the drunk Swede. Why are people drawn to us? My theory is that they’re not – they’re drawn to Rudy. I never had this when I was travelling by myself, but he’s a people magnet 🙂 Happily, she was great company – a retired lady who was travelling with her husband now that her three daughters were grown up.
Then a relaxed bus tour (the ticket was for 24 hours, so we definitely got our money’s worth), seeing the city’s buildings:
And transport:
And damp buildings (this is what those new buildings in Cambodia will look like in the not-too-distant future):
And Chinatown’s Petaling street from above:
Later in the trip, I got chance to practice my modelling skills – the girl in front was taking another “strategic” selfie. Rudy suddenly stopped talking when he realised I was looking ahead, smiling and bringing my V-sign close to my face. She looked mildly embarrassed, then pleased and took the photo. Our conversation resumed. I hope I made her happy 🙂
Then it was off to meet Cris and Annie. Walking to the market, we saw this massive hole in the road (which had got noticeably larger by the time we returned about an hour later):
Markets are always good – bustling, alive, colourful, interesting. And this one was no exception. We were just one metro stop outside the city, but it felt completely different – residential and local, despite the large percentage of ex-pats:
“Do you have any onion?” Annie asked the stallholder.
“No, only vegetables.” Ah, right. Yes.
Rudy’s attention was stolen by the dumpling stall:
Then back via the supermarket where, outside, there was a food bank for people to deposit and take whatever they needed. Great idea. Many times I’ve been faced with a BOGOF* offer and would have been happy to give away the free item:
Cris and Annie travel the world. They made their money by working hard, noticing a niche in the market for ethnic clothes and alternating between Thailand, where they designed and made the clothes, and European festivals, where they sold them. They now do whatever they please. And right now this involves a stay in KL in an apartment via AirBnB (must try this sometime). So I went for a lovely swim in the block’s pool, did some yoga with Annie and then ate a delicious veggie curry. Anka and Marishu are their Romanian and Peruvian (respectively) flatmates. A great night with great company:
PS I should explain why we’ve all got our hands up: Marishu (front centre) cut her hand on a glass earlier that evening and needed to keep it raised, so we joined her in a show of solidarity 🙂
A free walking tour focusing on the heritage of the city started the day off very nicely indeed:
Kuala Lumpur (KL) means “muddy confluence*”
In the late 19th century, there was a Chinese “gold rush” (in inverted commas because it was actually tin ore) to Kuala Lumpur
When the Chinese arrived, they settled on the less-muddy south bank
Between 1913 and 1957 the city fell under British authority, and they built on the north bank
The British wanted the city to develop rapidly and therefore they soon constructed a good road-system, railroads and other infrastructure
Japanese took over in 1942 for three years, changing the currency, time and language, with people forced to learn Japanese
The British had surrendered easily, partly because they were expecting the Japanese to approach by sea, so were pointing their guns in the wrong direction when they came overland from the north (!), and partly because the Indian transition to independence a little earlier had been a difficult time and they were reluctant to repeat it
So it was that Malaysia didn’t fight for independence but negotiated it
In 1957, Malaysia became an independent country
KL has a population of 1.6 million (as of 2010) and has great plans for the future, including a high-speed rail link to reduce the journey time to Singapore from 7 to 2 hours and the building of 300 edifices over the next 5 years.
Most of the heritage walk focused on the north bank, where the British settled and many of the colonial buildings still remain around Independence Square:
As the main form of transport for the British, there are many reminders of horse and carriage, such as this fountain which functioned as a drinking station:
And posts for tying up the horses:
One post outside the old British administration building was very low – over the years, the streets have been paved, layer over layer so the steps that raised the level of buildings as a flood defence have been gradually eaten away. But notice that the bottom step here is retained, even though it’s very low:
This, apparently, is because it’s auspicious (remember the Malaysians, like the Chinese, believe in this kind of thing) to step into a building with your right foot. As most people are right-handed, they will usually take the first step with their right, also. Retaining five steps means it’s more likely they’ll enter with their right foot. Neat, eh? Same with the hands – always give and receive with the right hand.
The Sultan Abdul Samad building (used by the British as an administration building) was, like many of the buildings here, designed by Arthur Charles Alfred Norman (who, along with AB Hubback, were responsible for most of the buildings in the area) and displays a mixture of architectural styles, predominantly Moorish:
At St Mary’s church, there was a wedding reaching its key point – we arrived just as they were pronounced husband and wife:
And then to the Royal Club where no women are allowed in the Long Bar. What rubbish. I went in anyway:
Not exactly a happening place. As an aside, St Andrews Golf Club started admitting women in Feb 2015.
Some nice exhibits in the music museum, including a set of gamelan:
And the drum used in the Commonwealth Games ceremony when KL hosted it in 1998:
Then through Chinatown:
… and on to catch the bus tour. The National Palace was bustling with tourists, but no admittance meant that, when you watched closer, people were taking a few photos and moving on. Which is what I did:
Then to the National Mosque. A relatively new building, the tower uses 13-sided and 5-sided shapes to represent the 13 states of Malaysia and 5 pillars of Islam:
I had to wear a hijab because I have breasts:
I may have missed the point and am, as ever, happy to be corrected (MR?) but it would seem that the female Muslim dress code to cover up seems to be because they don’t want to seduce men. Isn’t this rather sexist? I find it insulting to suggest that men don’t have any self-control in the presence of women. Not insulting to me, obviously, but insulting to men. Or perhaps it’s almost an excuse for them to misbehave. Don’t know. Either way, it was bl**dy hot under there, so it came off in places – I don’t want to offend (when in Rome…), but it’s not exactly practical attire for 30 degree heat. And I do, of course, respect each individual’s right to choose. As long as they have a choice and are not forced into it. Mind you, I have to admit that I kinda liked the feel of the hijab – it made me feel rather elegant. And that’s quite difficult 😉
The main mosque area looked impressive, but was “Muslims only”:
Interesting. As you may have noticed, I’ve visited a *lot* of temples over the past few months, and never have I been refused entry because I’m not Buddhist. Same with churches and cathedrals – they’re open to all. This does nothing for Islam’s PR. Please reconsider – I’m genuinely interested in, and respect, your faith even if I don’t share your views. But I did, of course, respect their request and didn’t enter. How is this different from the Long Bar? I don’t know. I make up the rules based on what feels right – to myself and others. And, later on, I discovered this is how hijabbed (is that a word?) women drink:
The family tree was interesting:
And the clock unusual:
And this made me smile – she looks so chilled under there:
Then a quick look at the impressive Old Railway Station:
Before going back through Chinatown, and it’s food:
… for a claypot dinner – scrummy:
… where we were accosted by a middle-aged Swede. Within 30 seconds, he’d told us that he’d been robbed. Short story: drinking on the plane continued when he arrived in KL. Woke up on the street and found that his watch, neck chain and wallet were gone and, upon calling his bank, that 10,000 euros had been taken out of his account. He was still drunk. Hadn’t yet told his wife (although later it emerged that maybe he had) who was due to arrive five days later. But he didn’t ask for money, which is what we were expecting (he could clearly afford beer so couldn’t have been that desperate). Can you take money out of a credit card account without the PIN? Anyway, I liked him…. because he’s the slowest gazelle: if his story is true, then it’s people like him that stop me getting robbed 🙂
Random stuff from today. This notice on taxis in KL was music to my ears:
A brilliantly-designed umbrella – notice the lip at the front to redirect the water:
A clear lack of regulations when it comes to selling cigarettes:
An easy day, starting with a closer view of the Petronas Towers:
… but didn’t go up – the queues are usually long and we’d had great views of the city last night (which included the towers themselves but, of course, when you’re in ’em, you can’t see ’em!).
Then a walk through the park with unusual trees – at first I thought it was a parasite plant, but I think it’s the tree itself:
And I really liked whale sculpture by the enormous paddling pool:
Crashed out:
… before dinner at a local Indian cafe which is always bursting with customers (thus following our “eat with the locals” approach to fine dining):
And sunset:
An easy day, leaving time to ponder KL. Now, I have to declare an interest at this point: one of my close friends is from there. But I will still give my honest observations, as ever 😉
As with many of the more developed places in Asia, its road systems use the U.S. blueprint, and there’s no hocking or spitting (hooray). And whilst its language is still foreign, using the Latin alphabet means a few words are recognisable and that’s often enough to get you through. But everyone speaks English anyway. And many buildings aren’t just blocks, but are aesthetically pleasing. Plus paved streets, concrete houses, fixed prices and modern transport systems.
But it’s also distinctly Asian: open shops, some unusual eats (to my eyes), no drinking water from taps, not brilliant signage (not that I need much help to get lost) and cheaper prices (but still more expensive than SE Asia).
In other respects it’s an odd mix: sometimes people queue (British) other times they get on the train before anyone’s had a chance to get off (Chinese); public toilets offer both squat and throne versions; sometimes toilet paper provided (western), other times not (eastern).
A travelling day on a first-class bus to Kuala Lumpur:
… where I was treated to dinner in the KL Tower – a revolving restaurant affording 360 degree views of the city:
… as the sun went down:
… and the thunderstorm arrived:
A new type of sink design – guess how you turn the tap on?:
Nope, nothing to give it away. This is what UX people call a “lack of affordances” – nothing to push, pull, turn or lift, so you’re at a complete loss as to how to use it. So a sticker is required (if something requires a sticker, it usually means it hasn’t been designed well):
The international buffet was amazing – spoilt for choice and way too much to exercise my usual “a little of everything” approach:
A special evening, with amazing views and wonderful company – another highlight:
