Delhi’s “Red Fort” was built by Shah Jahan who ruled between 1628 and 1658. It took ten years to construct (1638 to 1648).
Entry was originally via the Lahore gate with its seven arches recalling the seven tiers of heaven in the Muslim belief (hence the phrase “seventh heaven”). Its big wooden doors needed the help of elephants to open them:
Shah Jahan’s son added the porch (well, technically it’s another massive stone gate, but it’s a porch, really) causing his father to comment that “he has made the fort a bride by covering her face with a veil.”
The bazaar was a corridor lined with stalls, originally selling expensive, high-quality wares (and now less high-quality wares!). In the middle was an open area that provided light and air, and where musicians played:
The “Drum House” was the old entrance where drummers would call the faithful to prayer five times a day:
The “Diwan-i-Am” (hall of public audience) was where the emperor would deal with public business, such as disagreements, petitions and requests. It’s an impressive structure 3 bays deep and 9 bays wide. In typical Mughal style, it represented various concepts, such as the 1008 names of Vishu, the 99 names of Allah and the Christian Trinity. Buddhist architecture inspired the scalloped arches, with a Persian “lick” at the apex. References to many different cultures and religions reminded Shah Jahan of his obligations that none should feel offended:
Originally, it would have had luxurious carpets, silks hanging from the walls and gold and silver chandeliers (all since looted).
The “peacock throne”, encrusted with precious stones including the famous Koh-i-Noor diamond once stood here. After falling into Persian hands, it was deconstructed. The diamond ended up with the British and was recut for Queen Victoria, reducing it from 186 to 105 carats. The disgust in the audio guide’s voice was palpable (and, to be fair completely understandable). It’s now part of the British Crown Jewels.
Indeed, the British took up residence here in 1857 and it was, until fairly recently used a barracks, until the Red Ford was declared a World Heritage Site in 1943. They had first established power after setting up the “East India Company” in the early 17th century, gradually becoming more military until they were the effecitve ruler of India, stripping the emperor of his power and respect.
A short sit in the garden:
And it was nice to see a bit of local rebellion:
So we joined them… only to get booted off by a stressed warden who’d obviously nipped off for a quick fag. But not before we got this lovely shot:
All mosques face towards Mecca. Except this would have destroyed the symmetry of the Fort. The “Moti Masjid” (“Moti Mosque”) demonstrates an ingenious solution to this problem whereby the outer walls are in alignment, but inner walls have been constructed to face west. It was a shame I couldn’t actually get in to see it.
We were sitting on a bench in the main square, catching up on the audio guide when the first request came in. The fourth of the day, but the first of that session. And once people saw us agreeing to selfies, they wanted one to. A queue formed. Eventually, we had to move somewhere else because we weren’t actually able to listen to the guide. I decided on my strategy: I would agree to any selfies, but I’d ask them to take one on my camera, too. Interested to see how many we’ll have by the end of the trip.
The “Diwan-i-Khas” (hall of private audience) has five arches, representing the five pillars of Islam:
Khrizri Gate was used by Emperor Zafar to get easy access to the river and facilitated his escape in September 1857 when the British entered via the Lahore gate. He lived until 87, but a British lieutenant shot all his successors, declaring “I’m not cruel but I’m pleased to have rid the world of these people.” Not our finest moment.
The other main attraction at the Red Fort was, well, us. Starting before we’d even got a ticket, there were at least a dozen photo requests. At one point we were sat on a bench in the middle of the central courtyard and, as people saw us agreeing to photos with them, others came forward. Eventually we had to moved so that we could actually get through the chapter of the audio guide. I’m still rather perplexed as to why people want a picture of me but after my time in China, I’m kinda ready for it.
Back to our hostel via the very-efficient metro (10p each way – beat that Sadiq!) and a walk over the railway:
Random stuff from today:
Wooden scaffolding:
Street feet washing:
People queueing to pray at the Sikh monument right next to a busy roundabout:
