Park fees
Park fees for foreigners have increased steeply over the past year – the figures quoted in my guidebook (published Sep 2017) are way out. For instance, the book quoted the guide fee in Zombitse as 3,000 Ar, but it cost 64,000 Ar. This is almost certainly because the Malagsy must have worked out just how little 3,000 Ar was to us, and realised they could get away with much more. Can’t blame them, I suppose, but it’s been rather a shock – when I visit Africa, I don’t expect to still pay European prices! Our relative wealth must be mind-boggling to them.
Elections
Elections are taking place in early November, and there are no fewer than 36 candidates. The youngest (aged 42) is expected to win. In most towns there are long wooden boards with 36 sections – one for each candidate to display their propaganda. One candidate is giving out distinctive bright orange t-shirts. Trying to get hold of one, but they seem scarce!
Technology
This trip was an(other) experiment for my next longer one – I’ve changed my tech strategy. Learning from the pain caused by writing a blog on an iPhone, I brought a small, cheap Chromebook and ditched the iPhone. Blogging is much easier, but I’m missing the smartphone for these two main reasons:
- I can’t take panoramic pictures on my point n’ shoot camera (not sure why – surely this could be possible?)
- I can’t take notes during the day so I’m forgetting things that I want to write about
Polar steps
In Kirindy we met a couple who were using an app called “Polar steps” to log their adventure. It automatically logged their movements, steps and countries visited and they could add text and, of course, photos. You could then have your trip “downloaded” into a physical book. Definitely worth looking into when I get home.
[Update: Polar steps seems a good app, but it doesn’t allow photos to be inserted within text (not that I could see, anyway) – so it’s not as good as a blog]
French influence
It’s everywhere. The most obvious is the language – virtually everyone speaks French, as well as Malagsy. But you can also see it in the architecture, food and drink.
Road blocks
Up ahead, there were stones in the road, and Jimmy slowed. As we passed, children begged for “bon bons” and what I assume means “money” in Malagsy. Apparenly, they deliberately put things in the road to slow down the traffic and beg!
Houses
They’re all single skin, even the brick-built ones. Engineering hasn’t quite made it here, either*
* There weren’t any cavity walls in SE Asia or China, resulting in terrible damp in the buildings.
Taps
Blue is hot and red is cold – not sure whether it’s a plumbing error or the Malagsy standard doesn’t match the imported ironmongery. It took a little while to work out, and I have to remember every time I take a shower as old habits die hard!
Crime
With nothing to steal, crime isn’t a major problem for the locals in Madagascar. Houses appear to have minimal security and easy access. Banditry on the roads is the main issue – robbers are often driven to it because there’s no work.
Buses
You have to pay in advance at the terminal, and then come back to verify your tickets before the journey. And then, of course, turn up for departure. I can’t help but think there must be a better way…
Rudy’s magic
I love travelling with Rudy for many reasons. I especially love the way his personality shines through when he interacts with the locals, and how they warm to him. Actually, everyone warms to him. But it’s especially noticeable with the locals. For instance, the waiter at lunch asked which room number he should charge our food to.
Rudy held up the very large key fob: “Number six.”
And then Rudy clearly had a re-think, turned it upside-down and hurriedly said: “No, no – number nine, number nine” with a big grin on his face.