Saying goodbye to Jo was sadder than I expected. After nine days it was time to go our separate ways – with so much more time to play with, she was exploring Madagascar in more detail than I was able to. Our shared experience had brought us closer than in “normal” life, but it was time to say goodbye. I wished her all the best and hoped that she’d keep in touch.
Half an hour earlier, Jimmy had stood proudly in Rudy’s old jacket. He beamed as we told him it suited him (which was the truth). Rudy brings old clothes when he travels and donates them to people before he leaves. We weren’t sure how Jimmy would take the offer – we didn’t want to insult him – but Rudy brought it up delicately and Jimmy gratefully accepted. Along with his generous tip, he was a very happy guide, and we were happy customers.
The old woman was gaunt, stick-thin and I suspect looked much older than her years. My heart broke as she desperately begged for money. I still don’t know how to handle these situations – a small donation that would be unnoticeable by me would make such a difference to her. But there was a group, and I knew that if I gave her something, everyone would come begging. I’ve been asked hundreds of times for money on this trip and I can’t afford to give to everyone. So I choose to give to nobody, which doesn’t seem right either.
With the luxury bus full, we took the second-class bus (which is pretty much the same price) for the 9-hour journey from Antsirabe to Morondava. In England, nine hours would seem like an eternity (and you’d fall off the end) but elsewhere it’s a medium-sized journey.
It was notable for the following:
Roadside beggars ignored us – buses won’t stop, individuals can’t be targeted and they’ve probably learnt that bus occupants are less likely to donate (as they’re mostly locals)
Everyone was very quiet… except the baby who screamed for most of the journey
The only stop was a 20-min break for lunch
The scenery was impressive, but very similar to what we’d already seen in the south – the greenery of the film still eludes me
It rained hard for the first time on my trip
The sunset was beautiful – but now we couldn’t ask the driver to stop for photos (so this is the best I could do)!
We arrived in the dark at 6:50pm to the sound, but not the sight, of the sea. Alain collected us bang on 7pm as agreed and deposited us at our hotel.
Travel days are inexplicably tiring – I was asleep before Rudy was even out of the shower.