Rudy is one of the loveliest people you’ll ever meet. He’s also one of the happiest. I’m certain the two are connected. A 53-year-old Flemish-speaking truck driver from Belgium, he’s been alternating hard work (12 – 18 months) and travelling (3 – 12 months) for 29 years now. You don’t ask him if he’s been somewhere, but how many times. We met on the Plain of Jars tour in Phonsavan, along with Eleanor and Becky, Paula and Simon. Unusually, three of us had the same next destination and met up again back in Luang Prabang. Chatting on our cafe crawl yesterday made us realise that we were similar travellers – not so interested in ticking things off a list, but having a good time. And we enjoyed the same things. So when Simon hopped off on a two-day trek, Rudy suggested we visit Tad Se waterfall.
We left early to avoid the crowds.
The colour of the water took my breath away:
And then I saw the “swimming area” sign. Unfortunately, I hadn’t realised that you could swim at the waterfall, so hadn’t come prepared. Forgotten your PE kit? You know the drill, kids. So I went in in my underwear:
We had the whole beautiful place to ourselves for well over an hour. Another highlight of my trip. As the tour groups started to arrive, we were changed and exploring the paths beyond where we found this impressive specimen:
Fungi on the fallen trees:
And another Lao bridge:
… before we boarded the boat back to meet our tuk-tuk driver:
Walking through Luang Prabang, our attention was caught by chanting (the first photo I took managed to cut off Buddha’s head. I decided that this was bad karma, no matter your religion, so tried again):
And then we caught another beautiful sunset from further up the river:
… and then headed to the night market. I left Rudy at the table whilst I went to the buffet and returned to find him in deep conversation with a Thai couple sitting opposite. That’s another thing I’ve noticed about Rudy – everyone around him is laughing and smiling within moments of meeting him. He’s a genuinely happy and friendly chap and people warm to him instantly. Great company for the evening, and Kiddy promised to pass on her mum’s green curry recipe. Nom, nom 🙂
Travellers talk to travellers, and many had said that Lao was more “behind” than Cambodia. This perplexes me because it appears to be at least equal to, and in many ways more advanced than, Cambodia. For instance, whilst the number of concrete houses doesn’t yet match Vietnam, there are many more than Cambodia. Transport is more modern, and they’ve a “smoke-free” policy in most museums and public spaces, unlike both Cambodia and Vietnam. I instantly warmed to the place (despite arriving into Vientiane which, on reflection, has been my least-favourite Lao destination), the people are friendly and it’s relaxed and fun. Two weeks is most definitely not enough.
Nong Khiaw was on my reserve list. After a great tour of Phonsavan, followed by a relaxing few days in Luang Prabang, my batteries feel recharged and I’m really enjoying travelling again. I also really like Lao.
Rudy was heading up to Nong Khiaw, and then stopping at Oudom Xai before making his way to China, where he plans to spend two months. It’s much easier travelling with someone – stress, planning, everything is halved. So I decided to go for a couple of days before returning to Luang Prabang for the classic SE Asia boat trip up the Mekong to the Thai border. Happy days 🙂
Today’s random stuff.
Scaffolding, Laotian-style (engineers and Health & Safety people look away now):
My bruise is slowly coming out:
The French influence of boules, only it’s difficult to play the original version on dusty, rocky ground, so it’s been slightly adapted:
When asking for food in a Thai restaurant, say “Ped nit noy” (this isn’t how it’s spelt, just how it’s said) – apparently it means, “little bit spicy, but authentic”. Will remember that for later.
And finally, another bemusing T-shirt slogan – you’ll be pleased to know that “Lifs never stops.”