Ken learnt his (rather good) English from the Harry Potter movies. “You talk like Harry”, he enthused. I’d got to the Grand Palace before the crowds, bought a ticket and spent some time with the “Emerald Buddha” (those who discovered him thought he was made of emerald as they’d never heard of jade, and the name stuck). He has three costume changes: hot season, rainy season and cold season.
I decided to get a guide. The place was huge and, unlike Wat Pho, information boards were non-existent. Signed up for the free tour (which wasn’t advertised), and I was the only one. So it was just me and Harry. I mean, Ken.
The temple of the Grand Palace has no monks as it is a royal temple, so is a mixture of religion (ordination room, Buddhist shrine) and royalty (buildings to house the accoutrements and remains of past kings).
It was originally built in wood, due to lack of funds, by King Rama I. By the time his grandson (King Rama III – they display a distinct lack of imagination when naming their offspring) reigned, Siam was more prosperous due to trade with China, and he had it covered with gold leaf (which only took three years to complete because everyone came to help), and then “jewels” (glass). Four colours of glass represent the four elements: red (fire), blue (water), silver (air) and yellow (earth):
Around the temple are galleries (much like “cloisters”) with “the world’s longest painting” (according to Ken; according to Google that’s in Eritrea) depicting the story of how the queen was captured by demons and humans enlisted help of monkeys (who could make themselves super-strong and grow three extra pairs of arms) to defeat them and rescue her. School children learn the story and study sections of it much like our nativity story and the Bible.
There was also a rather impressive model of Angkor Wat (the main attraction in Cambodia) as it used to “belong” to Siam (when they invaded Cambodia; it was then subsequently invaded by the French):
The main residential building of the Grand Palace itself is built in the French style, supposedly to show more developed nations that “they could do it, too”. At this point Ken also referred to Buckingham Palace.
The princess doesn’t live in the main building, but a plainer edifice behind it, as she married a commoner, thus diluting the royal blood line – whilst she retains her title, none of her offspring have royal status (in fact, her son was killed in the tsunami, and did not get a royal burial).
And then Ken pointed to it – an imitation Buckingham Palace… but it’s in Thailand, so the king had a Thai roof put on it. And it has a French interior.
And it comes complete with guards (with a different hat because our furry variety is way too hot for here) and tourists:
Seriously, you couldn’t make this up!
I also saw the throne room. It actually has two thrones because the original (by Rama I), is triangle-shaped and uncomfortable to sit in so Rama III had another one made. When ordained, the new king is given five things by his predecessor:
- Crown (power)
- Sword (military victory)
- Staff (longevity)
- Fan (health – to bat away disease)
- Shoes (care of the people)
The gold crown (7.3kg) and shoes (6.5kg) are heavy, so he keeps all this stuff in his bedroom!
A museum of coins, medals and royal paraphenalia was mediocre. When I emerged at about 1:30pm the main palace entrance was absolutely heaving – so glad I got before all the tour parties arrived. Then to the “Queen Sirikit Textile Museum” that was also included in the ticket price. Clothes aren’t really my thing (if you hadn’t already worked that out!), but it was actually quite interesting (no photos allowed for obvious reasons). And the exit, as per usual, was via the gift shop. But this was like no other I’ve seen – instead of the usual tat of pencils, jars of jam, branded poor-quality chocolate and plastic stuff, it was filled with fabrics, clothes and a variety of items made using Thai silk, supporting a charity that supports local Thai craftspeople. Quality items from table runners, toiletry bags and picture frames to scarves, hand bags and key rings:
Then I wandered back to my hotel, via Khao San Road, to further cries of “Tuk-tuk?”
Yep bringing back lots of memories, but like your title ( pant things ) best, enjoy Siam Reap, know you don’t drink but it’s worth a walk down Pub Street.
Bob