Day 114 (Wed 6 Jan): Guangzhou (old city)

“So what brings you back to China?” I asked the Israeli who’d recently finished his PhD in Taiwan.”To find a girlfriend. But I’m not sure where to start.”

Ah, right. I admire your honesty. But can’t help you, I’m afraid.

So far in Guangzhou we’d seen the South Railway Station, Main Railway Station, East Railway Station, and the Long-Distance Bus Station. Rudy suggested adding the Ferry Terminal to our collection, but we decided instead to branch out and visit the old city:


Not much more to add, to be honest – people going about their lives. That in itself is worth noting though – we define nationalities, races and religions but the more I travel, the more I’m reminded that we’re all part of the human race.

A minor change of plan: we needed some admin time and, as Hong Kong is very expensive, we’ve decided to spend another night here and head to Hong Kong first thing tomorrow.

Random stuff from today:

  • Still lots of smoking here and with a packet costing from £1 to £2.50 it’s not surprising (although I guess it’s relative to earnings)
  • At dinner, these girls behind us were each glued to their mobile phone – social norms are changing

And, walking back to our hotel that evening, Rudy revealed that he had a big t-shirt collection… stored in alphabetical order (“So ones from ACDC and Australia, through to, err…” / “Zaire and ZZ Top?” / “Yes, exactly”. Reminded me of Rimmer*. I gently suggested that he might want to keep this information to himself and, for instance, not mention it when meeting new people 😉

* Red Dwarf character who would hang his identical shirts, pants and trousers in groups, perfectly spaced

Day 113 (Tue 5 Jan): Guilin to Guangzhou

China really knows how to travel by train – it’s clean and efficient. Plenty of space and airy carriages make it a very pleasant experience indeed:

And it’s fast:

Because the lines are straight – as I’ve mentioned previously, they’ve money and vast amounts of land (and I’m guessing, but I suspect a Communist government helps – as Sene said, the big wigs decide, nobody dares object and it gets done).

Outside, the landscape changed very quickly (no, not just because we were going almost 250kph):

But was still defined by lots of karsts:


Passing through numerous towns and cities, the homogeneity of the buildings was marked – metal and concrete, box-like, mostly symmetrical. Aesthetics clearly aren’t valued, which surprised me a little considering their elegant written script, descriptive language and cultural heritage.

The metro was in the same vein as their trains, the glass screen improving efficiency – very similar to London’s Jubilee line, the newest Tube line, so their transport system is clearly quite new. Plastic tokens this time, instead of thin card tickets – you place them on the sensor to enter through the barriers, and put it in the slot to exit. Efficient, sustainable and environmentally friendly. Regular travellers had plastic cards, again a better solution. Another difference was the seats – plastic and not divided by arm rests. I’m in two minds: on the downside, everyone was sliding all over the place as the train pulled away stopped at stations (which a metro is wont you do); on the other hand, they’re easy to clean. Eating was not allowed – this wouldn’t be a popular change on the Tube, but it would improve the experience for everyone (and I say this as a regular Tube eater although, for the record, I’m extra careful not to make a mess).

And another baffling slogan for the collection:


As usual, we hadn’t booked a hotel but as soon as we exited the metro we were presented with an offer of a hotel. The trick is to know the going rate (thanks, TripAdvisor). Rudy negotiated from 188¥ to 148¥, so we followed the guy to the hotel… where the room rate was set at 168¥. Dilemma: we were prepared to pay 168¥ but didn’t want to encourage his dishonest practice. Or let him off the hook. We put him on the spot; he did the Chinese embarrassed laugh and shaking of head. Point made, we went for dinner – a local(spicy) fish specialty which was delicious (also saw an African woman – haven’t seen any Africans during my travels so was a point of note):


… And then checked in at the hotel he’d brought us to 🙂

Another hotel aimed at Chinese, but I’m used to them and they’re good value for money (and usually come with respirators which is obviously very important).

We’d ended up in the * real* part of town – a trading estate near the station. Walking round that evening, we immediately noticed all the Africans – the lady in the restaurant hadn’t been a one off. Stopping to talk to a group hanging out on the street, it turns out they’re here to trade, sending (fake) goods back home – most of them are from Tanzania here on a one-year visa. But they can only stay thirty days at a time, so each month they make a day trip to Hong Kong. And with the Africans come African home comforts (mostly food). So on our last day in China, we found Little Africa 🙂